Friday, April 12, 2019

Hanging Gymnastics Rings for Cheap

I never really got weights, I think I just don't have the patience for them and everything about the mechanics of lifting just seems too...rigid for me, I guess? A few years ago I came across a video like this of a woman shooting an arrow with her feet while balancing on traffic cones, and the comments section led me to the Bodyweight Fitness subreddit. Here, I found tons of great resources for making an exercise plan that builds strength while focusing on mobility.

I got pretty far with just a pullup bar for equipment, but most of the really interesting skills use rings. I don't have a lot of options for hanging rings, eventually I settled on placing them over a girder in my basement. I have a somewhat low basement ceiling, so they could only be used at hip height or lower. This meant I could do dips but no ring pull-ups or muscle-ups.

While most the ceilings in my home were too low for hanging rings, my garage ceiling was fairly tall at around 9'. I was intrigued by ceiling-mounted ring hangers made by Rogue Fitness and some other companies, but balked slightly at the price; $65 plus shipping for a hunk of metal seemed a little much. There's a youtube tutorial out there from a guy who created a mount from bar of C channel steel that he drilled holes into. I couldn't find any C channel steel at the nearby hardware stores but found a 2' steel framing strut right as I was about to give up. This was perfect, it was only about $10, the 12 gauge steel could easily support my weight, it already had slots along the top for mounting, and recommended ring spacing is about 50cm so it was just long enough. I also picked up some clevis bolts and lag bolts at the hardware store, these were probably the most expensive parts in the whole project.

I drilled three holes through the side of the strut. The two end holes are about 50cm apart for the rings, the center hole is for a climbing rope should I decide to attach one in the future. The holes are just large enough for the clevis bolts to fit through.

Side view of drilled strut
Ceiling beams are spaced every 16", so this strut can only span 2 beams on its own. Since this needs to support my weight, I decided to cut and place a ~40" 2x4 to span 3 beams, then mount the strut to that 2x4 using another 3 lag bolts and washers. This way, if any single bolt fails, then the whole thing won't immediately crash down onto my head.
Finding the beams in the ceiling took an embarrassingly long amount of time. I spent more than an hour holding a stud finder against the ceiling in confusion, only to realize that I was looking in the wrong spot for the beam orientation I needed. I did, however, learn that stud finders still work reasonably well on popcorn ceilings, though if you have a tough time with it you can put a thin piece of cardboard between the ceiling and the stud finder.
Hanger mounted to the ceiling on 2x4
I gave each lag bolt in the 2x4 a counterbore so they wouldn't interfere with the strut, though I guess I could have just done the counterbore on the center bolt. Or I could have just put the center bolt through both the strut and the 2x4. Oh well, this works all the same.

The rings mount beautifully and more importantly, securely. All for under $30 and about the amount of labor that I would have put into the more expensive hanger.

Materials:

  • 1x 40" 2x4
  • 1x 2' framing strut
  • 6x 3/8" lag bolts
  • 6x 3/8" washers
  • 2x clevis bolts
  • 2x cotter pins

Tools

  • Stud finder
  • Drill press for drilling holes in steel strut
  • 3/8" bit
  • Hand drill
  • 15/64" bit for lag bolt pilot holes
  • Counterbore bit
  • 3/8" ratchet

Monday, April 8, 2019

Adding Sidechain to a Stompbox Compressor

Introduction

A compressor is an effect which reduces the volume of a signal. See the block diagram below, the effect can be thought of as a variable-gain amplifier and a level detector with the level detector setting the amplifier gain.


In most guitar compressor effect pedals, the input signal A and the control signal B are the same, or the amplifier output is fed back into the level detector. A high amplitude input signal is compressed while lower amplitude signals are mostly unchanged. This effect is often used to emulate power amp sag in a tube amplifier.

Sidechain compression is less common in stomp boxes, but everywhere in music production. In this configuration, an external signal, or sidechain, is fed into the level detector. The sidechain volume controls the volume of the output signal.

There aren't many guitar pedals which feature sidechaining; in my search I've only found the Empress Effects Compressor and the Deep Space Pulsar that explicitly offer it. Otherwise, the best options are rack effects or DAW plugins.

If you're wiling to put in some work, and have a compressor pedal you don't mind cracking open, you can play with sidechain effects in an inexpensive stompbox.

Goals

At the end of this project I wanted a compressor with the following:
  • Sidechain input
  • Sidechain level control
  • Ability to switch between sidechain and regular compression (unmodded function)

The Victim

Never having tried a compressor before, I got the TC Forcefield form their budget Smorgasbord of Tone line. TC was recently acquired by MUSIC Group, the same company that owns Behringer. All but one of the pedals in this series are reworked Behringer designs, which more often than not means they're reworked pedals from other well known brands. With a little bit of research, I traced back that the Forcefield was based on the Ibanez CP9 compressor, the schematic of which can be found on tonepad.com.

Looking at the CP9 compressor, you can see that it's an OTA compressor like the MXR Dyna Comp. electrosmash.com has a great analysis of this pedal which was used when designing my modification. If you're interested in this mod, or want a better explanation of how compressors work, please read that first.

The key piece in performing this mod is to separate the variable gain amplifier (referred to as OTA from here out) output from the level detector (referred to as envelope detector from here out). Once that connection is broken, you can plug your sidechain into the envelop detector to control the OTA.

The CP9/Forcefield has an excellent breakpoint, capacitor C7 is right between the OTA output and the envelop detector circuitry. Also, it's a through-hole part so very easy to remove.

Getting the sidechain input into the enclosure proved to be the most puzzling part of the mod. The 1/4" jacks are on the top of the enclosure with the DC input between them, so adding the sidechain input to the top wasn't an option without relocating the DC jack. The right and left sides of the enclosure are actually a separate piece from the enclosure face, which makes it difficult to wire anything to the left or right side. Also the enclosure is steel, so not easy to drill.

I noticed that both the input and output jacks of the effect were TRS jacks. Sadly, the output jack ring conductor is soldered directly to the ground plane and breaking this connection would be too difficult. The input jack ring conductor allows the battery to be switched out of the circuit when the input is unplugged, a pretty common arrangement. I decided that I probably wouldn't be using a battery in this effect, so cut the trace from the battery to the ring conductor. Now I could use the ring conductor of the input jack to get the sidechain signal into the pedal.

Ring conductor trace cut, jumper wire to boost/cut block

This adds some complexity when cabling; if I want to use the sidechain then the input jack has to be connected to a TRS splitter with the ring connection as the sidechain input and the tip as the effect input.

Sidechain Input Conditioning

I wasn't sure what level of signals I'd use for sidechaining so I decided to add a boost/cut block to the sidechain input. The EHX LPB-1 is a simple booster with fewer than 10 components, all of which I happened to have on hand. I was able to squeeze it onto a perfboard a little larger than a quarter, this sits sideways between a couple of the effect's potentiometer shafts. Some electrical tape prevents the LPB-1 board from shorting to the Forcefield PCBA. The C7 cap was moved onto this board so that breakout wires could be added between the OTA and envelope detector. The diagram below is a basic illustration of the mod. the only parts added to the original PCBA are the LPB-1 components, a switch, and some wire.

In order to switch between the normal compressor operation and the sidechain mode, a SPDT switch was added to the input of C7. Remember, the input to this cap is fed into the envelope detector. The switch pole is connected to the cap input, switch throw 1 is connected to the OTA output (normal operation) and switch throw 2 is connected to the LPB-1 output (sidechain mode).

Modded PCBA, cap C7 space is to top right of added potentiometer

I tested the pedal by running a constant synth tone into the pedal input while running bass kicks into the sidechain. Whenever a kick hits, the synth briefly drops out of the mix. The response is still sensitive to the sustain and attack controls the pedal came with, and the mode switch lets me return the pedal to its normal configuration. I'll call it a success.

Pedal reassembled


Future improvements:

  • The LPB-1 is a guitar booster and as a result it doesn't have a very sensitive bass response. The sidechain effect is probably used most effectively to duck bass hits, so it'd be a good idea to change the caps of the boost/cut board to allow more bass through.
  • Using a TRS splitter for the sidechain is a bit of a pain. Moving around the DC jack may be worth the convenience of having a dedicated 1/4" connector. A pigtail connector might work too, though that'd be pretty ugly and fragile.
  • Loss of battery function is a bummer, it'd be great to get that back either by finding a way to use the ring conductor on the output jack, or adding a 1/4" input somewhere.
  • The LPB-1 board is just kind of rattling around in the enclosure. This box isn't likely to leave my basement, but if it's going to last I'll need to work out some method to secure it to the PCBA or enclosure.
  • The sidechain level control is way too close to the pedal's original level control. I underestimated just how massive the stock knobs were when I was drilling the enclosure. Swapping the level pot and sidechain switch would have been a good idea, since they're the same size I could probably just go ahead and do that...

Conclusion

This mod wasn't all that difficult to perform once I had a plan, the most time consuming part was probably wiring up the LPB-1 board. A similar modification could probably be done using compressor pedals with different designs; like optical or FET compression. The basic strategy of separating the variable gain amplifier output from the level detector should still hold, though it may be more difficult than it was here.

About

I like to tinker in my spare time. Mostly, I'm interested in DIY music electronics like guitar gear and synthesizers. My education is in mechanical engineering and I work as an engineer in the medical device industry.

This blog is meant to be a repository for documenting some of my projects on the off chance that someone else needs a pointer while working on their own. Pretty much all of my projects are based off of write ups I found online written by smarter people, so I'd like to give back just a bit.